Trip to Sandakphu and Phalut

Trek to Sadakphu and Phalut - the very first trek trip of my life!.  Not exactly first coz earlier I trek to Amarnath but that was altogether different scenario and experience.  You don't have to carry your stuff along with you on Amarnath Trek.  But this was totally different from that trek.  Sandakphu and Phalut trek is known to be the best trek for those who are introducing themselves into the world of trekking.  Let me tell you why this one is considered for beginners becoz all along the route there are many shelters and food availability.  There are many Trekkers hut available enroute to Sandakphu and Phalut.  Normally these trekkers hut are vacant, but you never know if its not your day then you might have to spend your night in some strangers kitchen shivering and regretting your decision of trek.  We booked Trekkers hut in 4 different spots: Gairibas, Sandakphu, Phalut and Srikhola.  Only problem with booking a trekkers hut is you have to reach those spots before it gets dark.  I would suggest you to book those huts because in places like Phalut there is no shelter other than Government Trekkers Hut.

You can book Trekkers Hut from Gorkha Territorial Administration Office.  It is exactly opposite to City Centre, Saltlake, Kolkata.  Cost may vary depending on the GTA rules.

You can see the below map and decide which is the best route and halts for you.  This map is made by Arpan Gurung, official guide of Singalila National Park and Sandakphu and Phalut Trek route.

Trek route map of Sandakphu and Phalut (Singalila National Park) by Arpan Gurung

From Kolkata there are loads of train to NJP (New Jalpaiguri or Siliguri).  From NJP you can book a cab for Manebhanjyang.  Its around 3 hours journey from NJP to Manebhanjyang or you can try buses which start from NJP railway station and via Mirik reaches SukiaPokhari. From SukiaPokhari you can continue up to Manebhanjyang. There is a Guide and Porters association office in the entrance of Manebhanjyang where you can hire a guide or porter for your trek.  It is compulsory to take a guide with you in this route.  Either you can start your trek same day or you can stay at Manebhanjyang and start your trek next morning.  There are few hotels where you can stay and enjoy the scenic beauty of this special village.  This village is on LOC (Line of Control) or rather I should say DOC (Drain Of Control), a small drain acts as a border between India and Nepal.  You can see the image below.

Manebhanjyang, India-Nepal Border

Next morning we started our journey.  There is a checkpost where you have to register your details and pay Rs.100 per head.  Its an entrance fees for Singalila National Park.

Summary of our journey:
(time mentioned is for our future reference)

DAY 01:  Manebhanjyang to Gairibas


Manebhanjyang: 0730 Hours
You have to register here before starting your trek and pay entrance fees for Singalila National Park.  Then your journey starts.  Distance from Manebhanjyang to Chitrey is 2Km but the uphill will surely make you breathe louder and faster than your normal.  There is a steep hill section clearly visible in front of you.  It would be better to walk slowly during uphills.  Best way is to walk with half of your normal step and breathe heavily and keep yourself relaxed.

Chitrey: 0930 Hours
Once you reach Chitrey lookout for Chitrey Monastery on the left side, it is in Nepal.  In local language Monastery is called as Chesem.  Also lookout for big rock in the shape of Tiger's head, "Tiger Head Rock".  There is a small hotel I must say only hotel where you can have your refreshment, you can have your breakfast and go ahead.

Chitrey Monastery

Maney, Chitrey Monastery

Tiger Head Rock, Chitrey

Lamaydhura: 1030 Hours
As you leave Chitrey lookout for Chimal and Magnolia trees on the route and if you are one of the luckiest person on earth then you can see a little Red Panda on one of its tree. Lamaydhura is a small village where handful of Tibetan families reside.

Meghma: 1200 Hours
Meghma, most of the time covered with Clouds (Megh).  There is a Monastery here and a checkpost where you have to register your details and show your IDs at SSB checkpost to go further.  The trail from Lamaydhura to Meghma Village is very beautiful surrounded with lot of flora and fauna on the way.

Meghma Monastery, West Bengal, India

Tumling:1300 Hours
There is one of the best lodge of that area "Shikhar Lodge".  Both Lodging and fooding facilities available here.  We also had our lunch here and left Tumling at 1330 Hours.   The first landmark on the way is the Singalila Park entry check post. Once you cross it, it is a long hike till Jhaubari (2800 m/ 9186 ft).

Singalila National Park

Jhaubari: 1445 Hours
Jhaubari is not that small village.  There were hotels and houses.  There were plenty of fooding and lodging options here. A very small beautiful village, with few Toley (Hybrid variety of Yak) farms. From this village you have to turn right which will lead you to your next stop Gairibas.

An abandoned Cheese Factory, Jhaubari, West Bengal

Gairibas: 1600 Hours
From Jaubari to Gairibas is downhill. You will enjoy the last phase of your first day trek.  At Gairibas you can stay in the Government Trekkers Hut.  This place is surrounded by forest so if you are bird lover keep your eyes and ears open. You never know which species you can come across.  We were bit lucky to get this beautiful bird to capture in our lense.  Its Yellow Billed Blue Magpie.

Yellow Billed Blue Magpie

DAY 02: Gairibas to Sandakphu

Gairibas: 0800 Hours
From Gairibas you have to start your day walking uphill.  Both Land rover route and shortcut is uphill, so it would be better if you try shortcut.  Its more beautiful to walk through the forest.

Kaiyankatta: 0930 Hours
There is small tea shop at Kaiyankatta. From Kaiyankatta to Kalipokhri its 4Kms trail, but there is another trail which is 5Km trail but its more beautiful and flat to walk on.

Kalipokhri: 1045 Hours
There is a Pokhar or Pond at this spot. You can have your lunch here because after this spot upto Sandakphu you wont get any place for refreshments.  We had our lunch and took a long break and left for Sandakphu at 1330 Hours.

Kalpokhari, West Bengal

Sandakphu: 1530 Hours
From Kalpokhri to Sadakphu its a long trek where you have to go through Bikheybhanjyang. The route from here till Sandakphu is a 4 km steep incline. The trail zig zags up the hill full of Aconite plants. This Aconite plants is the reason behind the name of this place Bikheybhanjyang, Bikhey means "Vish" or Poison. Lookout for Sandakphu hill ahead.  Sandakphu, at 3636 m/ 11,929 ft. is the highest peak in the state of West Bengal, India.  Four of the five highest peaks in the world, Everest, Kanchendzonga, Lhotse and Makalu can be seen from its summit.  From Sandakphu the best view of the mountain Kanchendzonga is possible, which is known as the sleeping Buddha or the sleeping Shiva.   The last stretch to Sandakphu is full of Silver firs, Rhododendrons and Magnolia. Few Mobile networks are available at the highest point in Sandakphu.  You can have a complete panaromic view of Himalayan Peaks. Very chill-wind flows which makes the temperature drop to sub zero.  If you are lucky you can experience snow fall at Sandakphu, most probably in the month of January.

Kanchendzonga Range (Sleeping Budha)

DAY 03: Sandakphu to Phalut

Sandakphu: 0730 Hours
Register your exit from Sandakphu at the checkpost and walk ahead towards the north. The trail is easy as the altitude of Sandakphu and Phalut is almost same.  Complete trail from Sandakphu to Phalut is moderate, rocky path (gravel roads) with few muddy sections and forest cover this path.  You will get the best views of Kangchendzonga while trekking towards Phalut. This stretch takes around 5 hours to reach your next stop Sabarkum also known as Shikarghum.

Shikharghum/sabarkum: 1230 Hours
Get your entry tickets checked here.  You can have your lunch here, only thing you are going to get here is black tea and noodles soup. Its always better to carry some dry fruits and food with you so that you dont start hating noodles and affected with "NoodlesPhobia".  Trail from Shikharghum to Phalut is 7km.  There is 1 km of steep climb section at the end which can be negotiated by taking shortcuts.  And there you are look out for Trekkers hut on the right side. The peak of Phalut is now only 5 to 10 minutes of hill climb section ahead.

Deorali, Shikhargum

Phalut: 1445 Hours
Phalut is a small grassland with minimal or no vegetation.  Marvel at the grand view of Kangchendzonga which is said to be only 11kms as the  bird flies. This is the best vantage point to observe the great peaks of Nepal, primarily the Everest family.  Earlier it was known as Phalelung that means place where high speed wind flows.  You can see the pic below as per the locals after establishing this Mane the wind is comparatively slower which made this place safer.

Phalut View Point

DAY 04 : Phalut (3600 m/11,811 ft) to Sirikhola via Shikharghum and Molley

Phalut:
Again same route from Phalut to Shikarghum can be covered in 1.5 hours then take left from the checkpost which will lead you to Molley through dense forests.  The trail further is a series of descents and flat walks over rocky trails which are narrow and muddy.  You should be careful and look for wooden logs placed as makeshift steps on the trail. This section will take anything from 30 to 40 minutes after which you find yourself inside a forest cover descending down.

Trail from Molley to Srikhola

Observe the red arrow signs marked on the trail side showing you the way to Sirikhola.  You must make sure that you cover this trail during day light as it gets verrry dark in the forest.  After consistent down hill you will reach this beautiful village Srikhola.  Government Trekkers hut and private lodges are near the river and to reach that spot you can enjoy the Village Trek which you have to cover.  The name of the river is Sri and khola means river.  There is beautiful wooden bridge which you have to cross further to reach Rimbik.  Look out for trekkers hut or lodge and enjoy the stay.  You can have a camp fire celebrating your trek.  Enjoy the evening.

Srikhola River Bridge

Alternate trek routes from Phalut to Sirkhola :

Route 1: Phalut to Gorkey (5 km), to Rammam (9 km), to Sirkhola (12 km), total distance – 26 km. This is a longer route but very scenic. Experienced trekkers may want to take this route.

Route 2: Phalut to Sabarkum (7 km), to Rammam (16 km,) to Sirkhola (12 km), total distance – 35 km. This is a least trekked route and meant only for experienced trekkers. Ensure you start the day early as trekking in thick forest is required and it gets dark early from Molley to Rammam after lunch.

DAY 05:

You have to arrange for pickup in a jeep down to Darjeeling/Maneybhanjan from Sirkhola or trek down to Rimbik which is 7 km. From Rimbik you will get vehicles for Darjeeling.



Hotels at Manebhanjyang:
Hotel Pradhan:  Mahesh Pradhan, Kalyani Pradhan
                        Ph: +91-973-414-8217, +91-834-821-7154

Jeevan Chetri also known as Masterji is very well known person in Manebhanjyang.  You can contact this person for your arrangements. He got his own lodge also right on the main road of Manebhanjyang.

And ofcourse Arpan Gurung, a very well behaved Guide, the above map was made by him only. Master of shortcuts.

Arpan Gurung
Damey Gaon, Manebhanjyang
Gmail: arpangurungtrekking@gmail.com
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