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Tuesday, September 2, 2025

Expedition to Mt Kula (6560m)



17th August 2025

Yesterday I missed my train, the Netaji express because of the delay of the connecting train. So I boarded the Purushottam express from Kharagpur.


18th - 19th August 2025

Reached New Delhi station around 0430hrs hired an e-rickshaw to reach ISBT. Buses for Himachal Pradesh leave from platform number 19-20. A bus was already placed, as I enquired. He said the bus will go up to Mandi only. Roads after Mandi are not operating smoothly. Around 0530hrs the bus left New Delhi. The bus reached Mandi around 0330hrs. I boarded another bus from Mandi to Kullu. The bus conductor somehow managed to skip the traffic to some extent. But again we struck in the traffic. 


It was 0100hrs and we managed to reach the new tunnel after Mandi. No big vehicles were allowed to go further.




 A few youngsters in our bus were very active, they came forward and made way for all small vehicles like apple carrying trucks, campers and all. A few of us boarded one such truck. But after running for a few kilometres we were again stuck in the same traffic. It was 0600hrs now and it started raining heavily. Heavy rain caused landsliding exactly where our truck was standing. 



Again we went down to make way for our truck. But trucks from the opposite direction completely blocked our way. With daylight policemen came and cleared the traffic. Finally we reached Kullu around 0730hrs. From there I boarded a bus for Manali and reached around 1200hrs. Our team was already there in Hotel Amber. I had my lunch and then a sound sleep for 2 hours. In the evening I joined my team for expedition arrangements.  





A special dinner was prepared by Tapas Da. 


20th August 2025

It was still raining today so I dropped my plan of going to Hidimba Devi Temple. We were all ready and waiting for our transport to arrive. Around 0900hrs our transport arrived. We loaded all our sacks and luggage on the top and left Manali.



  In an hour we stopped for breakfast at Tandi, fueled our vehicle and then reached Bharatpur around 1500hrs for lunch. 



Then we reached Pang around 1800hrs which is our stoppage tonight. Proper rooms and beds were available here. It's a very famous restaurant in Pang. Sonam Pangri Motel has been operating since 1988. Everyone ordered honey lemon ginger tea and the day ended with a warm dinner.


21st August 2025

It wasn't a pleasant sleep for the team yesterday. Suman was not feeling well and everyone was uneasy because of the altitude and low oxygen level. Everyone was lying on the bed and was just waiting for the night to get over. Around 0530hrs I woke up, my head was also a bit heavy. Suman and Shanti Sir went to BRO health camp, as they were not feeling well. Suman was admitted and after some first aid treatment around 2 hours later they were back. 




Around 0930hrs we left Pang and in an hour we were in Dibring. 

Our team decided to prepare lunch by ourselves. Around 1300hrs we had our lunch and got settled in the stay provided by the hotel. We spent our day having debates and discussions over different topics starting from Indian Politics to the Himalayas.





Around 2000hrs dinner was served, this time the hotel guy prepared the dinner. After dinner we made a few calls to our respective families as today it was going to be the last day with the network. Everyone settled in their respective beds.


22nd August 2025

Last night was one of the longest nights I have ever experienced. And this was not just with me, everyone was saying the same thing the next morning. I woke up around 0550hrs and finished my daily chores. I made a few phone calls and around 0800hrs we left Dibring. In one and half hours our camper was placed at the starting point of our trek. 




150 metres from the road head a rough terrain to reach the river bank. Before noon there was no water in that river. We easily transferred all our luggage and rucksacks to the designated Basecamp. But around 1300hrs in the afternoon slowly the glacier water was coming down the river. Our support staff said it's the daily routine of this river. The first half of the day the river is dry and the second half is a full flowing river.  



We pitched our tents and established a proper Basecamp. Around 1430hrs lunch was served. Post lunch we started preparing the list and ration packets for the higher camps. The day ended with a warm dinner.



23rd August 2025

A slow morning today as we were supposed to stay here at Basecamp. After breakfast we decided to go for an acclimatization walk. 



We started around 0950hrs towards Camp 1 and walked for 3 hours. And then decided to return for lunch. Suddenly the weather changed and black clouds covered our Basecamp. In the afternoon it started raining, and the weather cleared a bit in the evening. The day ended with Jhalmuri snacks and a warm dinner.


24th August 2025

After finishing our daily chores we were ready for the Basecamp puja, I collected some flowers and Suman had a complete puja kit. He performed the puja very well with chanting loud mantras. Everyone was very happy and satisfied with the puja. A special prasad "Halwa" was made by our cook.  



After performing puja we distributed all our rations and equipment among those who were going for Camp 1. Me (Jaydhar Chowdhary), Subhradip Mondal, Jayanta Kundu and Soumen Ghosh with three support staff - Prem, Upendra and Dheeraj left the Basecamp around 0930hrs.

100m from the Basecamp and Soumen decided to stay back, as he was not feeling well. The last few days he was not getting a proper sleep. Today he was concerned about his sleep condition, so everyone suggested it and warned him about the conditions that can occur on higher camps. He wanted to try his strength up to Camp 1 at least, but he decided in time so that other team members wouldn't fall back because of him. Now only 3 of us were heading towards Camp 1. Some 300m from the Basecamp Subhra instructed me to go with the support staff and he will accompany Jayanta. That's how we proceeded. The weather was not so clear, we were half way into the trail and it started raining. Raining at this altitude is snowfall, so it was pleasant walking in the rain. Around 1300hrs we reached Camp 1. We pitched the tents and prepared Camp 1. Around 1430hrs Subhradip and Jayanta also reached Camp 1. Subhradip was having the stove and we had the gas so until they arrived we were unable to prepare tea or food. As soon as Subhradip and Jayanta arrived hot hot chicken soup was made. We had our lunch and slipped inside our sleeping bags. In the evening we recorded the altitude and clicked some pictures. 





It was reading 5459m on a Garmin device. Again snowfall started and we went inside our tents. Around 0730 hrs we prepared a special dinner of meshed potatoes.




 We ended our day with lots of gossip and laughs.



25th August 2025

Around 0600hrs we woke up, finished our daily chores and waited for the sky to clear. It was raining all night. Every now and then we used to shake our tent so that the snow doesn't get deposited over our tents.



It was raining snow all day, so we were not allowed to proceed anywhere. We watched two telugu movies. Language is not a barrier when you have to kill your time and the only option is a movie. Two movies and some food. That's how we spent another day in Camp 1. We decided if the weather opens we will start for Camp 2 early tomorrow morning.


26th August 2025

The day started with a small hot coffee and a big disappointment. The weather was still not clear, complete white out snow all over Camp 1. After breakfast we went inside our tents and again the morning show movie started. Around 1130 hrs of complete sunlight broke in, it was not raining anymore. We decided to proceed to Camp 2. By the time we packed our rucksacks our tent top layer was completely dry. We called our support staff Dheeraj and told him about our decision. I was disappointed by his reaction. Since last evening he was talking very negatively about the situation. Now also he was not at all happy or convinced with our decision. They wanted to return to the Basecamp. Looking at his situation and expressions. We gave him a suggestion. We asked them to at least drop a tent and some ration at the Camp 2 and return back immediately. They don't have to stay there. We said we can understand your situation we will not force you to come with us for a summit push. Just do this in favour of dropping a tent over there. Dheeraj went back to his tent had a discussion with his team mates and decided to come up with us. 



Around 1230 hrs we left Camp 1 and reached Camp 2 around 1600hrs. Porters already pitched their tents, as soon as we started pitching our tents again snowfall started. 



Somehow we pitched our tents and immediately went inside the tent and slipped inside our sleeping bags. After a few minutes we prepared our lunch. Meshed potatoes with black peas and lemon sauce etc. After a happy meal we again slipped inside our sleeping bags and resumed our morning show from Camp 1.


27th August - SUMMIT DAY

No change in the weather condition, still cloudy and drizzling. We woke up around 0600hrs and looking at the weather condition still the same we had a quick discussion that there is no use of waiting for another day here at Summit camp. 


Around 0730 hrs we left Summit Camp. The moment we start from camp there is a rocky ridge of around 500m, from there a steep ascent to reach a spur where we found two small lakes. From there again we ascended an almost 60 degree wall to reach a ridge. 



Reaching on the top of that ridge glacier is on our right side and now we have to proceed towards the left. Because of the cold my nose was completely blocked and I was unable to breathe and walk smoothly. So I was taking too many small breaks and it was killing too much time. 



I asked Subhradip to proceed so that our summit time can be recorded with the best time. A few kilometres and the peak is clearly visible. Subhradip and Dheeraj proceeded without waiting for us. Me and Jayanta followed them. After walking a few kilometres again the trail was very ascent. The last 100m ascent was almost 60-70 degrees, it's a scree zone. One step you go forward, two steps you slip down. When we reached this final stretch, Subhradip and Dheeraj reached us after summiting the top. Weather was worsening so Dheeraj was worried and Subhradip also suggested that if we go for the summit it will be too late and can be difficult while returning in the dark. It was 1510hrs ticking on our watches. We said let us give it a try, you two proceed to the Summit Camp. Me and Jayanta increased our speed and in 37 minutes we were on the summit. But it was very bad over there. The Blizzard was so high we couldn't even pay homage to the almighty. Subhradip already planted a Trishul sent by Suman and did puja. We bowed our heads and took blessings from the almighty chanting loudly Ganapati Bappa Morya - Ganpati Bappa Morya - Ganpati Bappa Morya. It was an auspicious occasion of Ganesh Chaturthi and once again I was in the Himalayas chanting his name. It's really special to celebrate Ganesh Chaturthi on the summit of any mountain in the Himalayas. Spending a few more minutes clicking pictures and taking videos we decided to descend. 


Coordinates:

N  33° 07′ 41.8″

E  078° 26′ 36.7″

Altitude: 6560m




@1423hrs




@1537hrs




@1545hrs


 The blizzard was getting stronger, nothing was clearly visible. With just 20-30 feet of visibility we were losing confidence. Sunglasses are getting vaporised, and if we remove them the strong blizzard and the snow reflection is not allowing us to see normally. For a moment, Jayanta and I were discussing whether it was the right decision to go for a summit in that weather condition with our team mates asking us not to do so. I asked Jayanta to take out our Poncho and guard ourselves against a rock and wait until the blizzard gets over. But Jayanta said no, let's proceed slowly as much as we can. We proceeded with the possible visibility we were getting and reached a point where we saw the sun rays sneaking through the clouds. Now we realised we were going in the right direction. Though this bad weather and blizzard acted like a curse, this deposited snow acted as a blessing. We slipped down wherever possible and tried to cover the trail as much as possible. After sometime the blizzard stops and we reach a point where we can see those two small lakes or ponds. 



A big sigh of relief for us, clicked a few pictures and slipped down the slope on the snow, though our bums were cursing us for this action, but we found the best solution to cover the trail and time. I had a muscle cramp near my right side of the stomach. So I was not in fit mode and slowly followed Jayanta. Around 1930hrs we were back to Summit Camp. Subhradip and Dheeraj already reached the camp an hour before us. As soon as we reached our team served some hot water. We went inside the tent as the weather was still not clear. Subhra had some soup and we prepared some hot rasna. We were yet to digest that we have done a 6500mt above peak. No celebration, no big smiles and not so strong fist punches and just simple congratulations guys to each other before we slipped inside our sleeping bags.


28th August 2025

It was supposed to be a slow day as we had to return to Basecamp only. We had some tea and unpitched our tents. Around 0830hrs we left Summit Camp and started descending. Our support team reached 2 hours before us, as we were clicking pictures and preparing for the celebration dance.



While returning we cleaned all the camps we stayed in for the last few days. Mid way we forgot that garbage bag. Subhra once again went back to collect that garbage while we waited for him.  



We reached Basecamp around 1245hrs. We entered the camp dancing as we already rehearsed while returning. Happy Hugs and sweet sweet yum Rasgulla. A great welcome for us. It was indeed a special summit for all of us and Travellers Guild celebrating 65 glorious years. I heard from a few friends that this expedition was going to be the last one for Shanti Jhetu. His presence is always special for all of us. 


The celebration continues with the special lunch prepared by Tapas Da. When Suman and Jayanta are around you don't need topics to initiate debate or discussions. The complete afternoon they were on and we were just giggling. In the evening we decided to prepare Ghugni for dinner. I went into the kitchen tent and started chopping the onions. Jayanta and Subhra also joined me. After a cumulative effort by the three of us we managed to prepare a yummy ghugni. Our support team prepared rotis for us. This was our last meal in the Basecamp.


29th August 2025

We woke up early as we had to dismantle the Basecamp. We unpitched our tents and cleaned the Basecamp, burnt all non biodegradable wastes and buried bio-degradable wastes.  





Around 0830hrs we wrapped everything and reached the road head. We waited around 30 minutes and our transportation for Dibring arrived. We stopped at Tso Kar village for breakfast and found a not so strong mobile network of BSNL there. Suman was having a network on his phone. We all made calls to our respective families. There was shocking news for us, Rocky was not coming to pick us up from Dibring as in the last few days Manali was affected by flash floods and the roads to enter were completely washed away. We were continuously trying different solutions. Rocky called us back informing us that he had arranged a vehicle for us, one of his friends was coming from Leh and he would be dropping us off at Manali. 



Around 1400hrs he came, we loaded all our luggage and in 15 minutes we left Dibring. The roller coaster ride took off with soothing Mohammed Rafi songs and suddenly turned into off-roading. That guy was a pro driver on that route. Every now and then he used to take off roads connecting to the highways. It was a myth for him that a Tempo Traveler can't ascend a 70 degree elevated road. We can't stop ourselves from clapping. Around 2000hrs we were in Sissu but, road is not accessible further for Manali. So he enquired for other options and came up with a route from Rohtang Pass. But the fuel was not enough and all the petrol pumps were out of fuel. The driver again came up with his Jugaad and arranged oil from a secret shop. After having a small tea break we resumed and after an adventurous Rohtang Pass journey we reached Manali around 2350hrs. It was Manali but not our destination, we reached Vashisht chowk and the road to Mall Road where our hotel was booked was completely washed away. The river was flowing instead of the road. Me and Dheeraj went down to check the position if we can go through by walking. It was already raining and it was impossible to cross that broken road. One guy said there is a route through the village, but it is very difficult and risky at night. We decided to stay in some hotel at Vasisht only. We booked one hotel and the hotel guys were so gentle that they prepared dinner for us at 0130hrs. For the last few days there was no electricity, no milk or vegetable supply to Manali. After dinner we slipped into the blankets with a hope for a better morning in Manali.


30th August 2025

I woke up early, finished my chores and packed my rucksack. It was our plan to find the solution to reach Manali. Jayanta and I left the hotel and found a route to reach the other side of the broken road to reach our pre-booked hotel. The trail was not less than a trekking expedition. Because the rain trail was completely muddy and slippery. Somehow we reached the other side of the road and saw Debasish sir already standing there looking for us. Viraj and Soumen also joined us. We talked to a few porters who can help us by transporting our luggage from the Vasisht side to the Mall road side. After some negotiation I left them as I had my flight the next afternoon so I had to leave Manali as early as possible. I left them and boarded a traveller around 0900hrs. That traveler was going up to Mandi. There was a guy in our bus who cleared all the obstacles for us, he used to show cops some medical certificates and they used to treat our bus like an ambulance. Around 1500hrs we reached Mandi. At first I inquired about the Delhi bus, it was at 1540hrs. I booked the tickets from the counter and bought some fruits and snacks. I reached Delhi at 0200hrs and then the next day boarded my flight for Kolkata and reached home safely.  


On the other side my entire team also safely landed into our pre-booked hotel and had our grand feast to bid goodbye and thanks to our mountain friends and our support staff. The next day they also left Manali to board Netaji express from Kalka and reached home safely the next day. 





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