1600 hrs from Kharagpur to Hwh by passenger train. Me and Alok boarded from Kharagpur. Tinku Bera came with us upto Kolaghat.
At Howrah Railway station we were all supposed to meet near Big Clock. Many members of Travellers Guild came to bid us good bye. We had a small photography session. Then shifted all our luggage to platform no. 9.
2150 hrs our train left from Howrah.
20.08.2022
On transit.
Day well spent in the train with great food and some amazing sweets.
21.08.2022
Early morning 0300hrs we reached Chandigarh. Our vehicle which we hired to drop us at Manali was already parked at the station. We loaded all our luggage on the Traveler. The driver was little unhappy looking at our luggage, after few phone calls with his owner finally he grabbed the steering wheel.
Around 0500 hrs we left Chandigarh. Around 0530 driver parked the vehicle for a tea break at Pehlwaan Dhaba. We had some nice Punjabi style chai and biscuits. Few of us used the washroom and about half n hour later we resumed our journey to Manali. Around 0930 we had another halt for breakfast.
We ordered Alu paranthas with curd. After killing half n hour there again we hopped on the traveller.
Around 1220hrs we got stuck in a jam. Almost 2 hours we were stuck there.
Slowly traffic started moving and then around 1500 hrs we stopped at an eatery just before Kullu. Finally around 1800hrs we reached Manali. We checked in Hotel New Neel Kamal. This hotel has its own speciality and importance. Every Bengali who is directly or indirectly connected with mountaineering knows about this hotel.
After keeping all our luggages and getting into our respective rooms, without wasting time we were all ready to go out. Some arrangements and marketing was to be done. After finishing dinner was bought from a restaurant. After a nice happy dinner our day ended.
Early morning 0530hrs I wokeup and knocked other room doors. Nobody responded so I decided to go alone. Walking and shooting videos for Instagram reels at Mall road.
Around 0600hrs Subhrodip rang me. He also came to Mall road and we decided to go Hadimba Temple . We jogged upto the temple. By the time we reached temple the priest was making preparations for morning aarti. We were lucky to witness aarti sitting inside the temple. After a while Viraj and Debu also joined us. After aarti we went to busstand for some Chai and Fen (crunchy layered toast) and then returned hotel. Our Quarter Master Tapas Da bought 12mm Alu Paranthas for the breakfast. Shanti Sir assigned our respective jobs for the day. Marketing, cooking and equipments sorting three teams were divided.
Around 1100hrs guide Mohar Singh and HAPs - NayaRam, Mahender and Bhopal arrived. All the equipments and snowboots etc were properly checked, sorted and packed. Evening after marketing me and Sashi went Old Manali for his dread locks. I left Sashi at the Saloon and returned back to the hotel. Few team members went Vasishst Temple and few were busy with their packing. I was wandering at Mall road shot time lapse of hustling crowd and had some delicious Siddu (a local dish, dumpling stuffed with dry fruits like badam and akhrot majorly). Our day ended with nice warm dinner.
Early morning 0630hrs our vehicle was parked at the hotel, we loaded all our sacks and bags on the bus, but it wasn't enough for 14 of us. After the guide and HAPs arrival Team of 10 was now 14. Some more brainstorming and another small vehicle was booked. Our leader, guide and support staff were in that car and rest of us were in the traveller.
Around 0845hrs we crossed Atal Tunnel, clicked some pics and resumed. 0915 reached Khoksar and had our breakfast. 1330 hrs reached Batal and halted for lunch. At 1430hrs we reached Kunzum La, it's a ritual for every vehicle or passers by to stop and pay homage to the goddess. All of us took her blessings and clicked many pictures.
1540hrs we passed through Losar and by the time we reached Manegaon our base village it was 1800hrs. We stayed at our mules guy Mr. Sangey Dorje house. It was a beautiful house typical traditional old Spiti style house design. Double storey house made up of mud and wood. Two small and one big room, a separate kitchen with dining facility. There were two beds in that big room and a carpet on the floor. Shanti Sir and our leader occupied those two beds and rest of us accommodate ourselves on the floor. Dinner was prepared by our support staff, after dinner we all slipped into our sleeping bags.
Manegaon - 3571m
Network - Jio
0800hrs we were ready to start our Trek. Clear sunny weather. Slowly we started moving towards east, Transit Camp. At 1000hrs we reached our first rest point, there was Jio network available at rest point. Around 1130hrs we reached Sopana Lake (4105m) and had our second rest point.
Around 1330hours we reached Transit Camp, pitched our tents. Glacial river is the water source available at Transit Camp. Khichdi was made for quick lunch and then roti, rice, dal and curry for dinner.
Transit Camp - 4129m
Network - Not available
Packed our tents had our breakfasts and left Transit Camp around 0830 hours. At 1000hours we stopped at our first rest point, we were amazed to see Jio networks available there also. Around 1130hrs we reached Basecamp. This was going to be our home for next few days, so properly pitched our tents. One big kitchen tent and 4 tents for all of us. Shanti Sir and Nitai in one tent, me Shashi and Subhradip in one tent. Our captain and Debu in one tent and Alok, viraj and Tapas Sir occupied one. After lunch ropes were properly sorted, cut in sizes and coiled properly.
Evening we walked back to the last rest point where we found mobile network, made few calls to update our whereabouts to our families. Day ended with next day plans and warm dinner.
Basecamp - 4577m
Network - Available but have to walk back around half kilometre.
We kept all our personal luggage in tent and filled our rucksacks with rope and rason, which we were going to leave at Camp 1. At 0730hrs our guide Mohar Singh offered puja to the almighty and then we had our breakfast. We left Basecamp for load ferry around 0830hours and reached Camp 1 around 1130 hours. Ten of us went for load ferry, Partha, Alok, Sashi, Viraj, Debu, Subhra, me, guide and two HAPs. After crossing the river a steep ascent and there is no downtrail, complete path from basecamp to camp 1 is ascent only. There is a very thin stream of waterfall where you have to be little careful, rest of the trail is safe but ascent.
We reached Camp 1 pitched one tent and kept all our load there. Two more groups not exactly group, they were two in each team and attempting alpine style. One of the member from those groups was not well, so they decided to stay at camp 1, whereas another team Ricky and Gaurav were going to attempt the very same day. After wishing them we returned back. Viraj and Debu were slow today so we decided to walk back and share their loads. The moment we reached them the guide came to us unloaded their load right there and put some stones over them. We started around 1216hrs from camp 1 and reached Basecamp at 1330hrs. By the time we reached river near the basecamp the water flow increased alot. Somehow we managed to cross jumping over the rocks. Again today we walked back upto the mobile network zone rang few numbers and returned. I heard someone talking that it's our captains birthday and there will be a cake cutting ceremony in the evening. So while returning from the phone calls I plucked some flowers to make the event little special. When I reached Camp Shanti Sir was ready with all the arrangements. I gave him that bunch of flowers and asked him to give our captain. Captain and Alok followed me to the camp, we had a great hour celebrating his birthday, he was shocked to see the cake on that altitude. We all pounced on it and in few seconds it was over. Day ended with a special dinner.
Camp 1- 5134m
Network - Available
Yeaaaaaah It's a Rest Day. Everyone was very relaxed and thought of doing this and that but it should be termed as Preparations Day rather than rest day. After breakfast personal equipments like snowboots, gaitor harness, jumar, carabiner etc was assigned to all of us.
It was a slow day we had a nice heavy lunch and everyone took rest in their respective tents. Around 1530hrs I saw subhradip going outside the tent, then I noticed someone with rucksack is coming back. Even I jumped out of my tent and ran behind him. We were curious to meet him. It was Ricky coming back from summit. At a distance we can see his partner following him. We congratulated him gave him some water and asked him to take some rest meanwhile tea was prepared for them. He successfully summited alone while his partner was not feeling well so he waited for him at Camp 2. We saw pictures and videos, biscuit and tea was offered to them, after few photographs they left for Kaza.
Evening Pakodas were served with tea. Had a great snack time. Day ended with a nice dinner and packing our sacks.
At 0900hrs Puja was offered at Basecamp. Club and National flag was handed over to the captain by Viraj. Viraj was not feeling well, so he decided to stay at Basecamp. Shanti Sir, Tapas Sir and Viraj stayed back and seven of us with guide and 3 support staff left for Camp 1. Left Basecamp at 0920 hours and reached Camp 1 at 1230 hours. We already brought packed lunch with us so had it and then pitched two more tents. Debu, Shasi, Subhradip and Nitai shared one tent and we youngsters Alok, me and Captain shared one. The same glacial river was here also used as water source.
Camp 1 - 5134m
Network - Available
After a quick maggi as breakfast we all left for Camp 2 at 0730 hours. Filled our rucksacks with rason, ropes, butane gas cylinders and left for Camp 2 for Load ferry. Trail from camp 1 to Camp 2 is completely loose rock a d boulders zone. First stretch is full of big rocks and last ascent of few meters is a scree zone. Moment we reached that scree zone it started raining. Weather today was little cloudy and it started snowing when we reached Camp 2. We dumped all our load and covered them properly. There were some more rason left by previous groups. We checked few dates they were all usable. It was 0930 hours when we reached Camp 2.
After few clicks we started descending. Around 1100 hours we returned back to Camp 1. While returning I found network in my phone me and Sashi had some phone calls. After lunch captain and vice-captain went into the kitchen tent for discussing our next approach with guide.
At evening tea captain gathered all of us for a team meeting. He announced his decision. Debu was instructed to return back to Basecamp with a kitchen staff as his health was not doing well. Last few nights he was continuously coughing. But he doesn't seems to be happy with the decision. But in mountains what captain decides is what you have to obey. Then followed another shocker, Alok, me were going to accompany captain for summit push, whereas Sashi, Subhra and Nitai were supposed to come upto the Summit camp only. Day ended with evening soup with papad followed by dinner.
Camp 2 -
After breakfast we started unpitching the tents and packed them. Debu and Kitchen staff NayeRam left for Basecamp and all of us towards camp 2. Around 0915 hours we started and at 1115 hours we were at camp 2. Had some tea followed by lunch. After lunch we decided to do some load ferry to Summit Camp as it will be easier next day with less load and will be good for acclimatization as well. Trail to Summit Camp and ascent was a complete scree and rock falling zone. A rope was already fixed in the first stretch of the ascent. Helmet is must for this part. We left camp 2 at 1300 hours and in an hour around 1415hours we were at Summit camp. We dumped our load properly covered them and returned back to camp 2 at 1500 hours. Evening tea with the stories of Nitai and his adventures. We had a great evening followed by nice warm dal chawal for dinner. Water source is the same glacial river but little difficult here to get. Jio Network is available here at camp 2.
After a quick maggi as breakfast we unpitched our tents and started ascending to Summit Camp. We left camp 2 at 0800 hrs and reached summit camp at 0910hours .
We pitched all our tents, total 3 one kitchen and two for us. There is no proper water source here at Summit camp, there is a pit kind of place where water gets deposited every day depth is just around 15-20 cm, we have to use mug to get water and fill our bottles. We filled all our bottles. It was Ganesh Chaturthi and every year I arrange puja at home, bein here I decided to pay homage to the vighnaharta and get his blessings for the summit push. After puja we started boiling water in our tent using our Jet Boil and Butane burner. Alok wanted to teach Subhra and Sashi how to operate the burner as next day they were going to stay at Summit camp without any support staff. We started preparing for the summit had a small team meeting among three of us. Captain gave us many instructions and chalked a plan for our summit push. Being less experienced amongst three I was instructed to walk in the middle of them. Captain decided a formation for summit push, guide was going to lead from front two HAPs going independently as they have to fix ropes and then Alok then me and then Captain. After dinner we tried to sleep, but the anxiety was winning over our sleep. We wokeup at 1230 hrs and started preparing for the big day.
It was 0130 when we started our journey for the big day. First few metres it was scree zone then a rock face of around 170 ft approximately. With snowboots it was bit difficult to climb that rock face. Rope was already fixed on that face but our guide was instructing us not to hold the rope and climb bare hands like him. We tried but we found it risky and exhausting in that darkness. From the point where we found the rope we lose our captain.
Our captain left us and went ahead of us. As per instructions I was trailing behind Alok. After few more feets I asked Alok to use Jumar, so that we can move faster and safely. When we have equipments why shouldn't we use them, we bought them for our safety and comfort. Around 0400 hours we reached the top of that rock face and we heard our captain cheering us and Mahender Singh was getting ready with his snow boot and crampons. Bhopal's shoe and a coil of rope was there. Guide, captain and Bhopal already started climbing the ice face. Mahender wore his crampons and waited for us to wear ours. We wore our crampons and started climbing the ice face. Again Alok in my front and then me slowly kicking our toes and jumaring up. It was approximately 100ft long ice face with an angle of around 60 degrees. We were halfway on this pitch and we found Bhopal Singh waiting for us near a piton. He said hurry up we are getting late you guys are too slow we have to refix this piton for further use. I realised that was the 4th piton we were crossing but didn't bothered that moment. Bhopal Singh was again and again repeating to move faster. It was 0540 when we finished this pitch and reached the shoulder. Captain and Guide were already halfway on the shoulder. Bhopal and Mahender stopped us and said you have to descend down. When we asked why??? they said it's captains order, we can't help you. We are just obeying his orders. We were shocked with their behaviour they were blocking us as if sister in law's block the door of a newly wed groom. Alok cried.... Partha Da ... O Partha Da, we want to go, please allow us, atleast allow me. But he never turned back, though guide was moving his hands which means our voice was reaching them. Even Bhopal and Mahender shouted and said something in their local language that's when guide Mohar Singh waved his hand. We were shocked and shattered with our captains behaviour, he not even bothered to look back. I took a 360 degree view of the point from where we were sent back and recorded altitude. It was 6142m showing in our Garmin device and summit was 6593m. Even we can see the summit flag fluttering just behind the last rock face, as if it was teasing us and showing us how close we were from the summit. Not a single white patch of cloud, it was a clear blue sky, we requested Mahender and Bhopal please don't do this, but they were repeating again and again it's too late and we are ordered not to allow you guys.
We started descending. We arranged our figure of 8 for rapelling down but this manila rope was not smooth enough to slide down. HAPs were getting angry on us why you guys are using this and wasting time, let's move faster. They asked me to use carabiner, I tried to use Italian hitch but that was also not moving faster and our HAPs were getting angry on us. So I just passed the rope through my carabiner and started descending down. Alok shouted at me don't do that it's not safe, I said what to do these guys are in so hurry. To make myself more secure I used my self anchor to the rope. After few minutes that ice pitch was finished and once again we were standing on the top of the rock face. We were still in shock that we already started descending without going for summit. I was unable to digest this, once again I asked Mahender and Bhopal as per you guys what is the time limit to reach the summit. Bhopal said it should be done by 7-8 am. Then I said so every team who comes here summited here before 8 am. He started shouting and became angry, this is not the way, you guys were slow. I said it was quarter to six when we reached shoulder. As per you we were slow so let's take 6 hours to reach the summit, though it was just 2-3 hours trail. I said weather is so clear, what's the problem? As Bhopal was getting angry Alok was continuously stopping me not to argue.
Though I was talking to him calmly Mahender was also calm but Bhopal was getting angry as if wanted to fight. We started rapelling down the rock face, after few feets they left us and we started descending without any assistance. The ropes were fixed with snow stacks made of aluminium in rock face. Any moment those snowstack can break, that was serious threat for anyone climbing on that face. We were literally crying like lads, we were not looking at each other's face, we were sitting halfway on the rock face and crying continuously. Sashi and Subhradip were eagerly waiting for us, when they say we are not descending properly and sitting again and again they thought we have some problem with our snowboots, so they started coming towards us with our hiking shoes in their hands. Looking at them Alok said don't cry and don't tell them anything about what has happened up there and we started descending. But when they asked what happened bhaiya Alok broke into tears and again both of us started crying and told them everything that happened in last few hours. It was hard to digest, it was just 0800hrs we were back to the Summit camp. To make us feel good Sashi and Subhradip asked us to join them. They were going towards Manerang pass. I thought of going with them to change my mood but returned from halfway. Alok went inside the tent, whereas I was sitting alone looking at void. I was not in a mood to talk to anyone. After 2 hours approx I came back and saw our captain sitting beside the tent. He was also back. With heavy heart I smiled at him, before I ask anything he said we failed I was unable to summit. I said what why what happened? He said because of my hands I was scared they were getting cold, I showed my hands to Mohar as well he said yes it's getting cold. So they returned. Selfish me was somewhere happy but a team player in me was disappointed, because of him our complete expedition was unsuccessful. An expedition is considered successful even if one person reaches the summit. But because of him our complete project was a failure. My last 6-7 months was wasted because of this guy. All the practices our hardwork to get permission and leave from our respective departments, everything went wasted. After a while Sashi and Subhradip came back from pass. I said let's move after lunch, but the captain said there is no point moving now and pitching all our tents once again either at camp 2 or Camp 1. It's better to move tomorrow and descend directly to the Basecamp. It wasn't a bad idea. I skipped my lunch and slept inside another tent to avoid our captain. I didn't wanted to discuss about the summit push and listen his lame excuses. I had some dry fruits and slept early.
02.09.2022
Next morning after a quick maggi we left Summit camp around 0800hours, we reached Camp 2 around 0840 hours took some rest and then continued. We reached Camp 1 around 1000hours. Me and Alok were walking very slow, our heavy hearts made our legs even heavier. We were sitting here and there and moving slowly towards the Basecamp. Everyone reached around 1200hours whereas we reached around 1400 hours. Viraj and Debu came up to the river to receive us. A yummy lunch was waiting for us. After lunch we started sorting our personal equipments and packed them. Debu informed us that Sangey Ji will be coming next morning with his Mules. Day ended with another yummy meal.
03.09.2022
We unpitched all our tents and cleaned the basecamp properly. Handed over the tents and common sacks to the guide. We were about to start from basecamp we saw Sangey Ji arrived with his 7 mules. Around 0940 hours we left Basecamp and reached Transit Camp around 1130hours. We took rest and had some snacks and then resumed. We had great fun while walking through the Sopana Lake. We clicked many pictures and shot funny videos using drone.
Around 1330 hours our base village was in our sight. But it took us two and half hours to reach the village. Around 1540hours we entered the village. There was a marriage in the village. We were excited with the opportunity of attending Spiti style marriage and with a chance of grand dinner as well. We kept our rucksacks and started wandering near the house where marriage was supposed to happen. We found the only shop in the village. We bought some snacks and drinks. Mirinda never tasted so good. We had a great hour playing carom with snacks and drinks. Again we started wandering near the marriage pandal. Somehow we wanted to enter. We were making stupid plans to enter right then few old women came upto us and said can you guys help us with small stones. We immediately pounced the opportunity and started collecting stones. We brought stones and helped them in arranging dining tables. They arrange tea and snacks for us, but real disappointment was that the marriage was next day so was the dinner. They invited us but we knew how excited we were and we missed it. We returned back still with a hope that someone will invite us for the dinner. Day ended with lots of laughter.
04.09.22
Around 0700hours we were all ready, we started loading sacks on the vehicle. Around 0730 we left Manegaon. At Kaza driver fueled the vehicle. In no time we passed through Kunzum La and reached Batal around 1100hours. Had our lunch and then around 1530 hours we stopped at Khoksar for tea. Around 1630 hours our vehicle was parking at hotel premises. After unloading all our sacks me and Sashi went into the market and reincarnated our taste buds. We had some non veg momos and sausages and then returned back to the hotel. That evening everyone was busy with their own plans. Day ended with nice dinner.
05.09.2022
I wokeup around 0700 hours and as usual went walking on the Mall road. Some arrangements were going on near the Taxi stand office. I went there and saw 8 huge containers with different items being cooked. I asked a passer by he said today a community lunch has been arranged for approximately 5000 people. My eyes wide open I returned hotel and informed everyone that there is no need to cook lunch today. All of us can join the community lunch. But nobody agreed. Shanti Sir and Nitai already started preparing the breakfast, even I joined them. It was Puri and alu sbji (potato curry). Meanwhile we were busy preparing breakfast we saw guide and Support staff were leaving. The moment they were leaving Alok just asked the guide about the summit day. We wanted to know the exact reason of sending us back. That small question turned into big argument. They were drunk so we were trying to handle them calmly. Even though I joined Alok and then in front of everyone we were asking them, but there was no proper reason, one of them said there was not enough piton, so asked them don't you know how many pitons are required on that face. They were like it's not possible you would have died. Finally as per them they saved our lives by sending us back. But there was no concrete reason. I never asked our captain whether it was his decision to send us back, because I don't wanted an argument with this guy with whom I was going to travel and spend three more days. But this is still a mystery whether it was captains decision or guide's decision.
After heated moment we went market to bring some fish for the lunch. While returning we had our lunch at the community lunch. After lunch we decided to go to the Vasishsta Temple. We took a short cut trail amidst ape gardens. Clicked pictures and stole few apples. After bathing at hot spring and darshan at temple we went to a village enroute. It was Devi's friend running a homestay in that village. Nice homestay surrounded with apple gardens and an amazing view of Beas river and Old Manali.
As it was getting dark we returned back. Did some shopping for my family and returned to the hotel. Grand dinner was prepared by Shanti Sir. Our transporter and hotel manager were also invited.
06.09.2022
From morning everyone was busy in packing. Shanti Sir was busy preparing lunch for all of us. We skipped breakfast and had an heavy brunch. The vehicle arrived at a sharp 1100hours. We loaded all our sacks and left Manali around 1230hours. We reached Kalka around 2100 hours. Train was yet to come, we carried our luggage to the platform and had our dinner at railway station. As per schedule train left Kalka. Tapas Sir and Sashi were in a different coach as they were going upto Delhi only.
07.09.2022
On transit
08.09.2022
Reached Howrah at 0830hours. Hired porter to carry common sacks up to Ghat. Me and Alok went with them to drop all the luggage to other side of the ghat. After bidding them good bye me and Alok returned to Howrah station. Boarded Ghatsila Memu express and finally our journey of biggest disappointment till date ended.
