Chadar an incomplete journey rather an extraordinary experience. After a wait of almost an year I managed to spare myself for Chadar Trek. It's a frozen river Trek on Zhanskar river in Leh district. Trek starts from Shingrak Sumdo near Chilling which is around 70km from Leh. One of my guide friend Hira Singh from Wan village in Uttarakhand whom I met during Ronti Saddle Trek gave me Tashi's contact for this Chadar Trek. Tashi is a local boy from Choglamsar, Leh. With paternal house in Zhanskar village and Choglamsar he is the perfect Zhanskari. He made all the arrangements for our trek. A home stay in Choglamsar just 20 minutes drive from Leh airport and a pure Zhanskari team with all the porters from Zhanskar village. We were very touched with his hospitality. The moment you land in Leh ( 9,800 FT) you can feel the drop in temperature afterall its one of the highest airport in the world. In winter there is no Road connectivity to Ladakh, flight is the only option. Tashi welcomed us with a traditional Bandhani (silk cloth used as garland). We were very pleased with this gesture. It was a celebrity kind of feeling. We hopped on the vehicle he brought for us and reached his house in Zhampa, Choglamsar. Beautiful house.....pics here.....
Complete market was closed in Leh. One of the royal members who was also posted as Chairman was expired and today his last journey. After a warm lunch, Tashi accompanied his elder brother Mr. Wangtup with us to visit Leh market. Few of us bought some locally made gloves and socks required for the Trek. One of our member Santanu's gumboot was not arranged as his shoe size is little bigger then the normal size. We filtered whole Moti market but no result. Everything was set for the trek except Santanu's gumboot. Keep in mind to acclimatize yourself you have to keep yourself outdoors as much as possible and drink lot of fluids. If you manage to spend first 2 days without any health issues it means you are acclimatized and nothing severe is going to happen until you complete the trek. Hot soup and delicious momos were served in dinner.
Day 02 (10,480 FT, 70 Kms drive, 4 KMs trek)
A mini bus was parked in time we loaded all our sacks, porter sledges and sacks and we left Zhampa at 0900 hrs. First 50 kms Road is good then last 20kms was under construction with lot of excavation work going on. Indus River flows all along the route and we also pass through confluence of Indus and Zhanskar river at Nimmu, Magnetic hill and Gurudwara Sri Pathar Saheb. Glimpse of Frozen Zhanskar was adding onto our excitement. We reached the starting point Shingrak Yogma (Shingrak Lower) also called Tilak Sumdo around 4 kms from Chilling. Zhanskar River was flowing with all force with white and grey frozen sides and bottle blue colored water. Our guide Tashi wanted to camp here but we insisted him to camp somewhere else where its less crowded. We stepped in our gumboots which was our companion for next 6 days. Few patches on the chadar are too slippery even gumboots doesnt find the grip. Only mantra to walk on chadar is to drag your feet like a penguin. Still I bet you are going to slip. Falling is part of experience so best thing is just keep counting and enjoy falling. Even the porters and guide were falling. Trail of around 4 kms and we reached Bakula. Our guide decided to camp here. Guide showed us a cave right up in the mountain adjacent to our campsite.
On enquiry they said its Bakula cave. Many years back a lama known as Bakula Rinpoche meditated here, so the name of the place and cave was the result. Nice big cave but the trail is tough. Very inclined and loose rocks. Some how we reached there but coming down is the toughest task in such places and it was our first day so I was worried about the injuries or any mishaps. Day ended with a delicious dinner and local sweet dish made of fruits.
Day 03 (10,760 FT, 14 Kms trek)
Most of the groups were returning today. Locals warned us not to go further as chadar was breaking and temperature increasing as well. We were little worried but decided to go. We left Bakula by 0800 hrs and our plan was to walk as much as possible. We passed through Shingrak Gongma. Chadar was little broken here, we managed to cross it. Trail is almost even with slight ups and down, one is rarely breathless. Zhanskar trek is not tough only factor is cold temperature which makes it difficult and test your tenacity. We had our quick lunch in noon and continue to walk. Around 1600hrs we reached Tibb cave. Beautiful campsite but dirty, ofcourse we are responsible for that. Most of the agencies camp here. There is a big cave on left where you can hangout in the evening and porters in this trek spend there nights in those caves only. Few of them build small cave by raising stones as a wall to guard chilly wind. They don't camp near client's tents, they spend there nights in those human made caves. As soon as the sun sets temperatures falls rapidly,. So please don't expose yourself too much. Day ended with nice hot dinner. It was yak stew, first time we were having this, it tastes almost like mutton but dark in color. For those who denied to have yak meat Pasta was made for them.
After dinner we all fill our Thermo flasks and hot water bags with hot water and get in our tents. One important thing you must have with you on this Trek is hot water bags. You will get them in any medical shops, but this is going to save you in those chilling nights. Keep those bags inside your sleeping bags and keep your batteries and gadgets etc also inside your sleeping bags, otherwise batteries will drain.
Day04
Tibb to Nerak (11,150 FT, 12 KMs Trek)
Today was last day of our forward journey, from tomorrow we will start returning. It was early morning when a man wearing Lama costume came near my tent and said..please return Chadar is broken, if we are alive we can do many such treks. He was guiding a foreigner and returning from Nerak. I was little worried by his information, but decided to go as we can't believe until we see it ourselves, from last two days people were saying that Chadar is broken but still we came so far. We left Tibb around 0800 hrs, there was another team camping that night they left half an hour before us. We came across Tsomo ganga. It's the only water fall which is never frozen. There is a story behind this waterfall. In ancient times people from Ladakh region used to go Tibbet for education to become Lama's. There was a boy from Nerak village he went Tibbet to learn budhism and become Lama. After his completion the head of the institution asked him his desire, he complaint about the water crisis in his village. That head of the institution gave him a container and strictly instructed him to open this container after reaching his village. That young boy turned Lama happily left monastery and started his return journey. As days were passing the weight of the container was gaining weight. Young Lama opened that container with curiosity, as soon as he opened it, two golden fish flew and get inside the rocky mountains, from those holes stream of water started flowing. That young Lama cursed himself for being impatient, if he would have opened that container in his village same stream was to flow in his village. You can see those two big holes water flowing from one hole and another is blocked, there is a story behind blockage of that hole.
Video here...wangtup
After crossing Tsomo Ganga, we came across a place where the river was just 10 feets wide and wall on both sides are like canyon, straight wall. After crossing this zone we had our quick lunch. During our lunch we came to know about a tragedy just happened in the trail ahead. One girl drowned in that Chilling water and she was dead. Her body was wrapped in plastic and traversed on sledge. Few more kilometers ahead and we reached a place where water was coming over the Chadar. And there was no way we can cross over it. Our guide went ahead to check the trail but return disappointed. We had a quick discussion and decided to camp right there and wait for the conditions to get better. After lunch we all went to collect some wood for fire. It was a sleepless night, hundreds of thoughts were running in our minds. Can we make it?? What if we reach Nerak and the chadar loose it's shape.??
Day 05
Camp before Nerak to Tsomo Ganga (10,760 FT, 12 Kms trek)
Next morning we started early. With packed lunch and two support staff and guide we were again on the same trail with our fingers crossed. Just 200mtrs from campsite Hirak decided to return. Chadar was not completely frozen. Still water was coming over. One support staff returned with him. Again we were at the same point from where we returned. Condition was even worst, still water was flowing over the frozen ice. Still we wanted to try, few more metres and water was inside our gumboots. Our legs were inside chilled water upto knees. We were out of mind, immediately we were looking for the support we climbed on siderocks, and put off our shoes and socks. One of our member had a nervous breakdown, after offering hot water he was normal condition. We all were looking at each other, confused disappointed. Guide Tashi said it's risky to continue, still asked for our opinion. Wangtuk another support staff very positively said let's do it, he said let's fix the rope we can cross. But he was not sure what will be the condition when we return. Already a team was strucked in between Nerak and this point. We had a small team discussion and decided to return. Immediately we returned to the campsite, packed all our tents and left the campsite. Our target was to cover as much as possible, as the water level was increasing. For next few kilometres we tried to avoid the water and walked over the rocks on the banks. We reached Tibb cave, condition here was worst. There was no way we can walk through, we have to climb the side walls and cross that broken patch. Ropes were fixed, luggage was crossed first then one by one we climbed over. It took us around an hour to cross, which in normal condition will take just 5 minutes. As we crossed that patch few locals were coming towards us without there pants and informed us about even worst condition then this patch, they said you have to get into water to cross.
Next few kilometres was something which we will remember whole life. We were literally walking in chilling minus temperature water shouting, laughing, singing ofcourse with pain. Sometimes water was around waist level. Somehow we crossed this particular patch and immediately changed our socks and pants and continued walking. You should not take rest if your body gets cold it can be harmful so our guide doesnt allowed us to take rest and we kept on walking. After an hour we stopped and prepared a quick lunch and dried our socks and pants. Trail after this was normal, it was getting dark so just before Tsomo Ganga we found a camp site where we decided to camp for the night.
Day 06
Tsomo Ganga to Shingrak Yogma (12.5 Kms)
Lazy day, we started around 0950Hrs from Tsomo Ganga, we knew today is going to be our last day, noone wants to leave this trail. We wanted to spend one more day, so we thought of camping again Bakula stay tonight and then tomorrow morning we can reach Shingrak Yongma to board the bus to Leh. Around 1230Hrs we were at Bakula, We were busy with clicking photographs, our guide informed us that there is a bus standing at Shingrak Yongma, which came with a team and now it has to return without any passengers. So we decided to catch that bus and reach Leh. We had CHADAR SNAN (Bath in Zhanskar river, Chadar) had some maggi and left for Leh. Around 1500Hrs we left for Leh. Enroute we stopped at Nimmu - Confluence of Zhanskar and Indus river, Magnetic Hill and very famous Gurudwara Sri Pathar Sahib.
By 1900 Hrs we were at Tashi's house.
Watch this video, complete story of our attempt.
Complete market was closed in Leh. One of the royal members who was also posted as Chairman was expired and today his last journey. After a warm lunch, Tashi accompanied his elder brother Mr. Wangtup with us to visit Leh market. Few of us bought some locally made gloves and socks required for the Trek. One of our member Santanu's gumboot was not arranged as his shoe size is little bigger then the normal size. We filtered whole Moti market but no result. Everything was set for the trek except Santanu's gumboot. Keep in mind to acclimatize yourself you have to keep yourself outdoors as much as possible and drink lot of fluids. If you manage to spend first 2 days without any health issues it means you are acclimatized and nothing severe is going to happen until you complete the trek. Hot soup and delicious momos were served in dinner.
Day 02 (10,480 FT, 70 Kms drive, 4 KMs trek)
A mini bus was parked in time we loaded all our sacks, porter sledges and sacks and we left Zhampa at 0900 hrs. First 50 kms Road is good then last 20kms was under construction with lot of excavation work going on. Indus River flows all along the route and we also pass through confluence of Indus and Zhanskar river at Nimmu, Magnetic hill and Gurudwara Sri Pathar Saheb. Glimpse of Frozen Zhanskar was adding onto our excitement. We reached the starting point Shingrak Yogma (Shingrak Lower) also called Tilak Sumdo around 4 kms from Chilling. Zhanskar River was flowing with all force with white and grey frozen sides and bottle blue colored water. Our guide Tashi wanted to camp here but we insisted him to camp somewhere else where its less crowded. We stepped in our gumboots which was our companion for next 6 days. Few patches on the chadar are too slippery even gumboots doesnt find the grip. Only mantra to walk on chadar is to drag your feet like a penguin. Still I bet you are going to slip. Falling is part of experience so best thing is just keep counting and enjoy falling. Even the porters and guide were falling. Trail of around 4 kms and we reached Bakula. Our guide decided to camp here. Guide showed us a cave right up in the mountain adjacent to our campsite.
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On enquiry they said its Bakula cave. Many years back a lama known as Bakula Rinpoche meditated here, so the name of the place and cave was the result. Nice big cave but the trail is tough. Very inclined and loose rocks. Some how we reached there but coming down is the toughest task in such places and it was our first day so I was worried about the injuries or any mishaps. Day ended with a delicious dinner and local sweet dish made of fruits.
Day 03 (10,760 FT, 14 Kms trek)
Most of the groups were returning today. Locals warned us not to go further as chadar was breaking and temperature increasing as well. We were little worried but decided to go. We left Bakula by 0800 hrs and our plan was to walk as much as possible. We passed through Shingrak Gongma. Chadar was little broken here, we managed to cross it. Trail is almost even with slight ups and down, one is rarely breathless. Zhanskar trek is not tough only factor is cold temperature which makes it difficult and test your tenacity. We had our quick lunch in noon and continue to walk. Around 1600hrs we reached Tibb cave. Beautiful campsite but dirty, ofcourse we are responsible for that. Most of the agencies camp here. There is a big cave on left where you can hangout in the evening and porters in this trek spend there nights in those caves only. Few of them build small cave by raising stones as a wall to guard chilly wind. They don't camp near client's tents, they spend there nights in those human made caves. As soon as the sun sets temperatures falls rapidly,. So please don't expose yourself too much. Day ended with nice hot dinner. It was yak stew, first time we were having this, it tastes almost like mutton but dark in color. For those who denied to have yak meat Pasta was made for them.
After dinner we all fill our Thermo flasks and hot water bags with hot water and get in our tents. One important thing you must have with you on this Trek is hot water bags. You will get them in any medical shops, but this is going to save you in those chilling nights. Keep those bags inside your sleeping bags and keep your batteries and gadgets etc also inside your sleeping bags, otherwise batteries will drain.
Day04
Tibb to Nerak (11,150 FT, 12 KMs Trek)
Today was last day of our forward journey, from tomorrow we will start returning. It was early morning when a man wearing Lama costume came near my tent and said..please return Chadar is broken, if we are alive we can do many such treks. He was guiding a foreigner and returning from Nerak. I was little worried by his information, but decided to go as we can't believe until we see it ourselves, from last two days people were saying that Chadar is broken but still we came so far. We left Tibb around 0800 hrs, there was another team camping that night they left half an hour before us. We came across Tsomo ganga. It's the only water fall which is never frozen. There is a story behind this waterfall. In ancient times people from Ladakh region used to go Tibbet for education to become Lama's. There was a boy from Nerak village he went Tibbet to learn budhism and become Lama. After his completion the head of the institution asked him his desire, he complaint about the water crisis in his village. That head of the institution gave him a container and strictly instructed him to open this container after reaching his village. That young boy turned Lama happily left monastery and started his return journey. As days were passing the weight of the container was gaining weight. Young Lama opened that container with curiosity, as soon as he opened it, two golden fish flew and get inside the rocky mountains, from those holes stream of water started flowing. That young Lama cursed himself for being impatient, if he would have opened that container in his village same stream was to flow in his village. You can see those two big holes water flowing from one hole and another is blocked, there is a story behind blockage of that hole.
Video here...wangtup
After crossing Tsomo Ganga, we came across a place where the river was just 10 feets wide and wall on both sides are like canyon, straight wall. After crossing this zone we had our quick lunch. During our lunch we came to know about a tragedy just happened in the trail ahead. One girl drowned in that Chilling water and she was dead. Her body was wrapped in plastic and traversed on sledge. Few more kilometers ahead and we reached a place where water was coming over the Chadar. And there was no way we can cross over it. Our guide went ahead to check the trail but return disappointed. We had a quick discussion and decided to camp right there and wait for the conditions to get better. After lunch we all went to collect some wood for fire. It was a sleepless night, hundreds of thoughts were running in our minds. Can we make it?? What if we reach Nerak and the chadar loose it's shape.??
Day 05
Camp before Nerak to Tsomo Ganga (10,760 FT, 12 Kms trek)
Next morning we started early. With packed lunch and two support staff and guide we were again on the same trail with our fingers crossed. Just 200mtrs from campsite Hirak decided to return. Chadar was not completely frozen. Still water was coming over. One support staff returned with him. Again we were at the same point from where we returned. Condition was even worst, still water was flowing over the frozen ice. Still we wanted to try, few more metres and water was inside our gumboots. Our legs were inside chilled water upto knees. We were out of mind, immediately we were looking for the support we climbed on siderocks, and put off our shoes and socks. One of our member had a nervous breakdown, after offering hot water he was normal condition. We all were looking at each other, confused disappointed. Guide Tashi said it's risky to continue, still asked for our opinion. Wangtuk another support staff very positively said let's do it, he said let's fix the rope we can cross. But he was not sure what will be the condition when we return. Already a team was strucked in between Nerak and this point. We had a small team discussion and decided to return. Immediately we returned to the campsite, packed all our tents and left the campsite. Our target was to cover as much as possible, as the water level was increasing. For next few kilometres we tried to avoid the water and walked over the rocks on the banks. We reached Tibb cave, condition here was worst. There was no way we can walk through, we have to climb the side walls and cross that broken patch. Ropes were fixed, luggage was crossed first then one by one we climbed over. It took us around an hour to cross, which in normal condition will take just 5 minutes. As we crossed that patch few locals were coming towards us without there pants and informed us about even worst condition then this patch, they said you have to get into water to cross.
Next few kilometres was something which we will remember whole life. We were literally walking in chilling minus temperature water shouting, laughing, singing ofcourse with pain. Sometimes water was around waist level. Somehow we crossed this particular patch and immediately changed our socks and pants and continued walking. You should not take rest if your body gets cold it can be harmful so our guide doesnt allowed us to take rest and we kept on walking. After an hour we stopped and prepared a quick lunch and dried our socks and pants. Trail after this was normal, it was getting dark so just before Tsomo Ganga we found a camp site where we decided to camp for the night.
Day 06
Tsomo Ganga to Shingrak Yogma (12.5 Kms)
Lazy day, we started around 0950Hrs from Tsomo Ganga, we knew today is going to be our last day, noone wants to leave this trail. We wanted to spend one more day, so we thought of camping again Bakula stay tonight and then tomorrow morning we can reach Shingrak Yongma to board the bus to Leh. Around 1230Hrs we were at Bakula, We were busy with clicking photographs, our guide informed us that there is a bus standing at Shingrak Yongma, which came with a team and now it has to return without any passengers. So we decided to catch that bus and reach Leh. We had CHADAR SNAN (Bath in Zhanskar river, Chadar) had some maggi and left for Leh. Around 1500Hrs we left for Leh. Enroute we stopped at Nimmu - Confluence of Zhanskar and Indus river, Magnetic Hill and very famous Gurudwara Sri Pathar Sahib.
By 1900 Hrs we were at Tashi's house.
Watch this video, complete story of our attempt.
