jaydhar: 2016

Last time when I visited this place it was June, totally different from what I saw this time. You can read my previous experience here. Trek to Roopkund, Skeleton Lake Uttaranchal Roopkund popularly known as Skeleton Lake, but there was no skeleton in the lake when I visited in June. Everything was covered with snow. Our guide Mohan asked me to come again in September to see all those skeletons. I decided that time only that I have to visit this place in another season, but wasn't sure when. That WHEN came just after a year. This time I joined a local club Kharagpur Explorers Association. My regular team wasnt with me. I missed Probhas, Sumanta, Mudi and Gajju this time. Twelve members team left Kharagpur on 28th August night for Howrah. Our train Howrah-Jaisalmer Express was from Howrah next morning 0800 hrs that is 29th August.

Day 01: 29th August

Howrah: 0800 Hrs

Day 02: 30th August Reached Barielly 0600 Hrs

Reached bareilly around 0600 hrs. A tempo traveller was already booked on phone, it was waiting for us. We left Bareilly around 0730 hrs for wan. We had our breakfasts at Bhimtal road. We reached Kasauni at 1500 Hrs had our lunch and once again hit the road. Around 1700 hrs we reached Gwaldam. Its a small town with all facilities, there is a market. School yes there is a KV at gwaldam. Shopped for vegetables, eggs etc which was required for the trek. We reached Wan around 2230 hrs. We were supposed to stay at GMVN. Around 1km uphill trek to reach GMVN.

Reached Wan around 2230Hrs. We stayed at GMVN(Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam) huts. Two dormitory rooms are there with all the beddings. Its a nice place with all comforts. There is caretaker who can cook for you or you can prepare your own meals.

Day 03: At Wan (Day Of Preparations)
There is a very locally famous temple in Wan - Latu Devta Ka Mandir (Temple Of Latu Dev). As per locals its 16th Century Temple started with Badrinath Temple, both Badrinath and Latu Dev Temple used to open on same day that is during Baisakhi Budh Purnima. But now Badrinath temple committee has changed that rule, now Badrinath open as per Planets positions and all. Latu Dev main temple opens for a day, rest of the days people worship just out side the temple. We were lucky to witness puja there. Local Taxi Association was offering puja there. Offerings for puja Even prasad for puja also made right there at temple premises. A sheep was slaughtered as per offerings to the god, but one thing I noticed is they did this bali ritual outside the temple premises. They slaughter it and cook there only. We were also invited for the lunch.

It was puri and mutton, they have a typical style of cooking that mutton, that sheep was roasted on fire then with a big knife it was cut into pieces like some wood cutting, on the other side gravy is prepared and these pieces are added in that gravy and served. After lunch all the packing works were done. Our guide arranged some chicken for dinner that day.
Day 04: Wan to Bedni Bugyal
It was 0630 hrs we all were ready but there was no sign of porters, only one porter was there Man Singh and he said that our guide is out for arranging porters. As it was getting late we asked our team to leave. Four of us (Me, Alok, Jayanta, Hirak) stayed back and rest of our team with one porter (Man Singh) left for Bedni Bugyal. After a while guide came back and informed us that nobody is ready to come on this trek. There is some festival in the village and some government proposal for preparing Toilets. We were tensed, he was still trying he went to every possible person and asked for them to come. Our caretaker Rana Ji also started calling his contacts to arrange for porters. Somehow Mohan Singh sent two porters who were from Nepal working with local road contractor. Now count was 3 and we still need 9 more porters. I called up Mahendra Singh Dhamu from Lohajung. He immediately sent two more porters (Hira and Surender, experienced and best in lot). Thank you Mahendra Ji for this!!Thanks alot!!

Mahendra Singh Dhamu and Rana ji (Wan caretaker) made this trek possible. Rana ji asked us to start the trek with few Mules to carry the luggage and ensured us that 5 more porters will join us next day at BhagwaBasa. We left Wan with 4 porters and 4 mules. It was 1030 hrs when we left Wan. Our main concern was the weather. It was cloudy and as expected by the time we reached Gairolipathar it started raining. Had some noodles and Alu Parathas made by Rana ji. We reached Bedni Bugyal at 1620 hrs. By the time we reached rain stopped. We occupied two trekkers hut. Porters were introduced to our team and our club caps were gifted by our seniors to the porters.

Water source: Neel Ganga, Gairoli Pathar, Bedni Bugyal

Day 04: Bedni Bugyal to Bhagwa Basa

After breakfast and offering puja at Bedni Kund. We left for Bhagwa Basa. You have to pay for those trekkers hut at Bedni Bugyal.

Reached Patharnachauni at 1200 Hrs. Trail from Patharnachani to kalua Vinayak is tough. Its just 2.5Kms but it took us 3 hours to reach KaluVinayak top. Around 1440 hrs we reached KaluaVinayak. Next day was Ganesh Chaturthi and this year I missed out because of this trek. So I took one idol with me to place it there.

After placing that idol and little puja, we left for Bhagwa Basa. It was getting darker because of clouds. Last time when I was here it was completely covered with snow. But this time no snow at all. Both side of the trail you can see loads of BrahmaKamal. Its like garden of BrahmaKamal.

As you cross KaluaVinayak there is a small cave that is Bhagwa Basa, then two small temples are there its called Rani ka Sulera. As per locals, Valpa Rani gave birth to a baby here. Huniyathar is the name of place where campsite of Bhagwa Basa is. Trekkers hut are also available at Huniyathar. Reached Huniyathar at 1535Hrs.

Mt. Chowkhmba from Huniyathar (Bhagwa Basa)

Water source: no water source from Bedni to Bhagwa Basa. If you are lucky you can get some stream at Patharnachauni. Otherwise its better to carry sufficient water to last till end of the day.

Day 05: Huniyathar to Shilasamudra

We left huniyathar at 0820 hrs. There is no source of water near huniyathar camp site. You will get water at Rantantra, its around 500m from Huniyathar. After filling our bottles we resumed our trek. Next few hours were tough, trail from Rantantar to Roopkund is nice bit rocky but during this trail we gained maximum altitude.

Snake like trail known as SidiyaNag.

We reached Roopkund at 1120 hrs. I was amazed to see so many skeletons, I missed them last time. We walked around the lake and clicked numerous pics.

We waited there for our team to come. After a photo session we left for Junargali. Its 500m from Roopkund. From Junargali Mt. Trishul and Mt. Nandaghunti peaks are clearly visible. From here you get top view of Roopkund.

It was 1400 hrs when we left Junargali. Trail from Junargali to Shila Samudra is just 5km but I bet you will enjoy as if its 50kms (panch me pachas ka mza). You have to be careful while walking down. Its complete down trail. It was getting cloudy and dark, to reach campsite we crossed the river, its better to cross that river as early as possible, coz the water level can rise, then it will be tough to cross through. There is a big stone where you can pitch your tents, its best spot at Shila samudra, other spots at river bed, which I think is not so safe. Unfortunately we were slower, another team acquired that big stone campsite. We pitched our tents at river bed. There is a helipad at shila samudra, one can use it also as campsite. This helipad was made during Nanda devi yatra. Its better to stay here for single day being lower area covered with mountains all around, clouds get collected here by evening. Few team members suggested for a day rest, but looking at the weather conditions our captain decided to moveon.

Water sources: Rantantra and then Shila Samudra

Day 06: Shilasamudra to Dodang

Sixth day, beautiful sunny morning last night it was raining but mornings are always beautiful in valleys. After breakfast we started around 0900 hrs.

First 2km easy trail, then a glacier totally covered with rocks. You must be careful while walking over the glacier. The rocks are not even. This glacier zone is called Nithaponi 4Kms from Shila Samudra. After crossing this glacier we were in most beautiful trail of entire trek. It was like some location for Bollywood songs. Thin streams falling from huge black rocky mountains then passing through greenery. On your left river and on your right mountain and you are walking through grasses and shrubs of your height. Its just awesome even pictures cant describe the beauty, you have to be here to experience this. This kind of trail continues for another 3.5km till you reach Chota Homkund. Last 1km is uphill otherwise rest of the trail is like walking in a park.

Nandajat yatra ends here at Chota Homkund. As per our porter friends during this yatra a sheep is completely decorated with jewelry and left here after some puja and rituals. Amazing thing about this sheep is these sheep's are never seen aagain. As per them this sheep walk towards Mt. Trishul, through Sone ki Sidi (Golden Stairs). From Chota Homkund Do-Dang is merely 500m.

Day 07: Do-Dang to Ronti Saddle and back to Do-Dang

Seventh day, most important day today we were going to accomplish our target, yes Ronti Saddle, 17400ft above sea level. Its shoulder of Mt. Trishul and Mt. Nandaghunti. You can see the picture the centre part like a horse saddle is the point known as Ronti Saddle.

Today we were supposed to cover 9+9kms, as afternoon here are not favourable, most of the time it rains. So our target was to finish the trail and come back to the camp site before noon. So we started early morning 0345hrs from Do-Dang. It was dark and the trail was narrow, yes narrow how much we realized when we returned in day light. Its a ridge from Do-Dang to Homkund. Because of darkness we all crossed the ridge pretty easily, but while returning all our legs were shivering we were like what the fuck this was the trail we came through. Its only one feet wide few places not up to the mark. By the time we reached Homkund sun was hitting the peak of Mt.Nandaghunti. We reached Homkund at 0600Hrs.

As our guide started puja rituals at homkund someone in our group announced that its Biplab's bday. Everyone wished him hugged him. After few cam clicks we were back on trail, our target was clearly visible now. Not so far but not at all near. Learnt many things while covering few kilometers. Somnath was loosing hope, he said he doesnt want to go. But our team leader wanted all of us to accomplish the task. He was backing him up then he asked me to join Somnath and back him. He was backing Bubu da. Somnath was walking very slowly complaining headache and vomiting tendencies. Somehow I managed back him and he also covered alot, but I was becoming restless as all my fellow hikers were already on the saddle. 500m before saddle I saw Sajal da and Biplab sitting. Biplab said I cant I said Ok, then Sajal da..yhi saddle h, yahan se upr tak pura hi Ronti Saddle h. (We have reached, from here to there its all part of Ronti Saddle). I asked Somnath do u want to come or sit here. He said yes but Alok asked him to stay back. It was already getting late, if we take them with us we are not going to make in time. So me and Alok advanced reached Ronti Saddle, team was already there clicking pics. We reached on Saddle at 1015Hrs. As we reached we all shouted together hugged each other, great feeling cant explain in words. Weather was with us no signs of cloud, clear blue sky cool breeze, hot sun amazing yaar amazing. You have to reach there to experience this. On our right Mt. Nandaghunti, on left Mt. Trishul, we can see Homkund and the trail we covered to reach here, on our back side we can see glimpse of Nandadevi.

Mt. Nandaghunti Side

Mt. Nandadevi Side, that is backside

Mt. Trishul Side

After scores of cam clicks we decided to return. I was wearing normal sports jogger which is not recommended on hard ice. But we were not supposed to get any ice or snow in this season, but few metres near the saddle its covered with snow. So even if you are wearing a jogger for complete trek, last day its not recommended. I was not comfortable on hard ice with joggers. Somehow managed to cover the ice region. Last 500m to saddle you have to be very careful while walking, as the stones to walk on are loose and not even. We had another cam clicks session at new Ronti Saddle suggested by Sajal da. Me, Jayanta, Saurav, Hirak, Avik and our team leader Alok made it to the top saddle and 4 team members stayed back at bottom saddle. It was already 1230Hrs, after some tea and snacks we were back on trail. Another small break at Homkund then we were again on that ridge. Most dangerous trail of this route is this ridge. As per locals because of this ridge Homkund yatra destination was shifted to Chota Homkund. By the time we reached Do-Dang it was 1500Hrs. We all were so tired that day that our plans of celebrating Biplab's Bday was cancelled.

Day 08: Do-Dang to Latkhopari

Few of our slow members left early from the camp site so that we can cover as much of the trail possible. We have two options Bhojani and Latkhopari. Few members wanted to stay at Bhojani and few at Latkhopari. Our biggest concern was to cross the river. As the day progress water level and the force increases as well. Around 0920Hrs we reached near the river. We formed human chain and crossed the river. Water was so chilled cant explain, after crossing the river we all started cleaning ourselves, it was almost a week we bathed. It was nice sunny morning so we all decided to clean ourselves then resumed our trek.

Trail after river crossing is very beautiful, green everywhere with Trishul and Nandaghunti on your backside, Stream coming out of Trishul Glacier, making loud WHOOOOSH WHOOOSH sound was adding special effect to this trail. All of us were running behind one another clicking scores of photographs, making videos cracking jokes. In no time we reached Chandaniya Ghat, its 4Km from Do-Dang.

From Chandaniaghat to Bhojani is 3Km, you have to once again cross the river, but dont worry this time there is a wooden bridge so no need to worry. As soon as you cross the river you starts entering into the forest of Bhoj trees. Our first paper, Bhojpatra was used as paper in ancient time. My conception was Bhojpatra means leaf of Bhoj tree, but I was wrong, its not leaf, its bark of the tree. Locals use this bark for worshipping. Its very sacred for them.

As we reach Bhojani it was 1245hrs, we inspected the campsite at Bhojani, but it wasnt that good, we would have to cut bushes to make that campsite. Most of us didn't like the spot and we were still having time in hand, we decided to march forward and stay at Latkhopari. One should stay at Bhojani if and only if there is no other option, if you cant make upto Jamundali which is 3Km from Bhojani or Latkhopari which is nother 5Km thereafter. But we can't live Bhojani until our all team members reach here. So we clicked few photographs of the spot and Alok and me went back to our other team members who were coming behind, to confirm tonight's stay at Latkhopari. Somehow we convinced them for night stay at Latkhopari. Our other team members left for Latkhopari me and Alok with our older members. By the time we reached Jamundali it was 1520hrs and it started raining. We reached Latkhopari around 1630 hrs. Everyday it became a routine for Alok to return to the slower members and bring them together. Campsite at Bhojani (not recommended)

Everyday one of us used to accompany Alok, today was my day. I decided to go along them instead of coming back for them. Mr (75) and Mrs(57) Biswas were our daily rescue operation victims. Campsite at Latkhopari is beautiful. If you are lucky your mobile phone can get connected to its network. Our porter friends arranged woods for fire. It was our last day in tents and woods.

Water Resources: Many streams in this trail.

Day 09: Latkhopari to Suthol

It was the laziest morning in last few days, few of our older members left the camp site early to match up with our speed. After a loud discussion between Alok and Biplab then backed up by Somnath we left the site at 0915Hrs. From here on the trail is muddy and through woods. First few kilometers is down trail then up then normal. From Latkhopari to Tantra its 9Km, there is a big shed at Tantra. We reached Tantra around 1330 hrs. Few kilometers ahead of Tantra our mobile networks started connecting. From Tantra to Suthol is 4Kms but this 4Kms down trail isnt that easy. You can see Suthol village but so much zig zag trail that all the toughest route you covered in last few days started fading agains this trail. There is a beautiful iron bridge across the river at the entrance of the village.

There is a campsite at the bank of the river near the temple at left side. Another team from Malda occupied that space. We reached Suthol around 1515Hrs. We were so hungry that the first shop we found we started ordering food for us. There was some festival in that village. So the whole village was beautiful decorated, children were playing here and there women were busy with their Puja thalis. Men were busy in arranging evening events. We went on to the roof of the shop and ordered omellettes, chowmin and colddrinks for us. We planned a campfire and farewell for our Porter friends. Found a nice home stay for the night. We prepared dinner for them. In few days those porter boys became so friendly with all of us that none of us went to sleep. They insisted us to attend fair with them. At the middle of the village there is small space nicely decorated with lights and streamers.

Each and every villager was there. One man was chanting the story and few artists were dressed up like the characters of Mahabharata. They were depicting the story of "Pandavas" in dance style. They were performing pretty well, there expressions were spot on and there dance moves were pretty new and funny for us, but it was great to watch. We came back to our rooms after an hour but the play ended around 0500 hrs.

Day 10: Suthol to KaranPrayag to Dehradun

Now its time to go. Our porter friends left early morning for their respective villages. We booked vehicles which dropped us upto Karan Prayag. They charged 6000 bucks for two vehicles. We left Suthol at 0900 hrs and reached Karan Prayag at 1400hrs. Again booked another vehicle from KaranPrayag to Dehradun. Reached Dehradun around 0930 hrs. Stepped in a hotel near Railway Station. After dinner slept like never before.

Day 11: Stay at Dehradun

After a lazy morning and afternoon we all went Haridwar to attend Har Ki Pouri, but our bad luck by the time we reached ghats it was over. Then we started searching for very famous DADA-BOUDI'r hotel. Every bengali who comes Haridwar visits here. There are many duplicate DADA-BOUDI hotels also. I saw few names MASI'r hotel, MAMA-MAMI hotel. Its a pure vegeterian hotel, food was simple but tasty and good. Simple menu of Ghee, Steam rice with a green chili and salt, then some fries, any veg curry depending on the season and Dal. Per plate costs Rs.50, its dead cheap compare to other hotels.

Day 12: Stay at Dehradun

Another day at Dehradun, our reservations were next day so we have no other options but to stay. Lazy day just roam around local market, was trying to kill time. Train was at 2300Hrs. But it was 6Hrs late. So we checked out of hotel and went to Railway Station. Boarded train around 0430Hrs.

Day 13: On train

Day 14: Reached Howrah then Local train from Howrah to Kharagpur then to our respective homes.

It was an amazing trip, I was little nervous earlier, but boys were amazing. Each one of them is great hiker. Hirak, Jayanta, Sourav, Avik, Biplab, Somnath and last but not the least our team leader Alok. Amazing team work for all of them. There were few older members Mr and Mrs Biswas, Sajal Da, Bubu da who were amazing as per there age. Someone in that age completing the trek is really great work. Had a great time!

Thanks to:

Mahendra Singh Dhamu, Lohajung: 8979666837, 9410925427
Rana Ji, Care Taker GMVN Wan